By Marie Chauché
The storm has been raging on the Basque Coast for almost three weeks now. Amidst the turmoil, occasional breaks in the clouds allowed us to enjoy some big waves and challenging surf sessions, much to our delight. But the relentless downpours and gusts of wind eventually took their toll on the water quality and our morale, leaving behind only a raging, barely surfable ocean.
It is therefore in the mountains that we find solace, through a new source of wonder. For the rain showers in the plains are like snowflakes at altitude, dusting the peaks.
It had perhaps been ten years since I had last been to Gourette, and it was with fresh eyes that I rediscovered the Pyrenean resort nestled in the Ossau Valley. A flood of memories came rushing back: my first school ski trips in primary and secondary school, the slopes skied down with my friends, the snowball fights, the magic of winter in the mountains, in short.
This time, I am once again treading the snow of the BĂ©arn resort, accompanied by my father, a surf photographer and mountain enthusiast, and a surfer and snowboarder friend, Romain.
We are greeted by the sun, whose rays reveal the ruggedness and curves of the surrounding landscape, camouflaged in white. Our 2ndLife sunglasses accompany us throughout this stay, and it is through their lenses that we discover the Pène Médaa, the Pène Blanque, and the Pic de Ger, which mark the cirque. Only the Sarrière ridge, airy and sharp, prized by climbers in the summer, stands out with its dark walls. The setting is magnificent.
We took the opportunity to snap some photos, admire the panoramic views from the chairlifts, and try out a few pairs of sunglasses at the summit. Founded in the Southwest of France, 2ndLife's DNA perfectly complements that of Gourette: committed, authentic, and deeply rooted in the local area, nestled between the ocean and the mountains. The French brand offers polarized lenses made from bio-waste and strives to create frames from recycled materials, ensuring that its production is as local as possible.
We try out different models at the top of the slopes, but also on skis, since we spend the day exploring the ski area and moving between the Coch and Pène Blanque sectors. The resort has modernized since my last visit, with two gondolas built, while only one ski lift remains (much to my delight).
A short break at the Cairn, a mountain restaurant, allows us to eat and recharge our batteries before the afternoon ski lesson, taught by Vincent, a ski instructor at the ESF but also an avid surfer.
The day ends at Chalets Isko , where we admire the sun disappearing behind the mountains, leaving behind memories of this beautiful day. It feels like being in a Scandinavian country: a succession of charming, colorful chalets stand facing the peaks, offering the best view of the resort. The interiors of the accommodations are cozy and comforting, with warm decor.
We relive the day over a beer, soothed by the warmth emanating from the fireplace in the common room.
The evening unfolded in this way, punctuated by travel and skiing anecdotes inspired by the day's encounters: Philippe, who showed us around the resort and introduced us to the lift technicians who gave us a tour of the chairlift station; Florian, who organized the photoshoot at the restaurant; Marc-André, who introduced us to the new eyewear collection between runs; Vincent, a passionate skier, who gave us a ski lesson and found some powder runs; and Camille, who welcomed us to the Chalets d'Iskö.
Passionate and, at the same time, fascinating people who know how to share their love of the mountains. Because behind Gourette, behind the resort, there are above all women and men, and human stories that are woven in silence.
For us, this excursion was full of spontaneity and laughter, lots of laughter, and for that, we are grateful to them.
I cast one last glance from the balcony towards the mountain, illuminated by the full moon and the ballet of snow groomers beginning a long night of piste preparation. The comfort of the bedding quickly lulls us into a restful sleep.
The next day, I glimpsed the mountain through the skylight. A good breakfast prepared us to fully enjoy this last day, where snowfall and clear skies alternated throughout the hours. I was amazed by the dance of the snowflakes that covered our clothes.
At times, the sky is white and it becomes more difficult to distinguish the roughness of the track. Instinct then takes over, like during sunset surfing sessions, when the light gradually fades.
The ocean, like the chairlifts, is emptying out; only the enthusiasts, the addicts, the diehards remain. The children, the other skiers and snowboarders stay in the lower part of the resort, around the discovery area or the snowpark, while we, for our part, stubbornly insist on going up to Anglas.
Up there, solitude and fresh snow welcome us in silence. The powder absorbs all sounds, erases all friction. From now on, we no longer ski, but we float, we fly.
At times, the mist obscures our bearings but heightens the sensations. We don't stray too far from the markers on the trail, but we fully appreciate our good fortune. These are truly magical, suspended moments we experience there, with friends and family.
We go from one run to the next, losing all track of time. The chairlifts coming to a stop signals the end of the day and, with it, our stay.
A huge thank you to the team at Gourette , 2ndLife , and Chalets Iskö for this enchanting interlude in the heart of the Pyrenees. Already feeling nostalgic on the way down, we've made plans: we'll be back this summer to explore the area on foot, or who knows, maybe even by mountain bike!
@ MarieChauché : Marie was 15 when she started competing in surfing. Now a young adult, she has accumulated numerous French championship titles in Longboard, at the federal and university levels, and in coastal rescue, all while pursuing her surfing career alongside her studies.
